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| Stephen Frink’s Web Log: Fiji aboard NAI'A, November 06-13, 2004 Aboard the NAI'A, Stephen Frink captures the beauty of Fiji. Text and Photography by Stephen Frink http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/200411fiji/ |
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We traveled all night, and while I wouldn't say we arrived exactly refreshed, it wasn't particularly brutal either. We weren't scheduled to board NAI'A until 1:00 PM, so we made reservations for the morning at the Tokatoka Resort, only a kilometer from the airport. A shower, breakfast, and one last check of e-mail and it was off to the boat, about 30-minutes from the resort. So far, it was all very civilized. Seeing the boat once again reassured us as well, for she appeared in excellent shape, both structurally and cosmetically. Day 1Even though we did not arrive at the boat until after 1:30, the crew was very organized. We were shown to our cabins, given a very basic boat briefing, and then we cast off, bound for the Bligh Waters region. While many boats are content to merely shove off at all on that first day, the NAI'A was eager to get us in the water, even if is was at one of their more marginal sites. Actually, Samu Reef did have some very nice macro critters, but admittedly this dive was more about getting our buoyancy in tune and making sure cameras worked. Our groups tend to be very intensely motivated in terms of UW photography, so having that first dive to work out bugs is always advantageous. Visibility was only about 50 feet, but we were treated to our first photo-ops for clownfish, starfish, and other common Pacific creatures. Knowing the best was yet to come was a comfort. |
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Day 2
Cat's Meow on the other hand is draped with soft corals of every pastel hue. There is a scenic swim-through bisecting the bommie near the bottom at 75 feet, and a horizontal bridge of soft corals that makes for a terrific foreground when working with dive models. I was fortunate to be multi-tasking on this trip, shooting some product illustrations for Aqua Lung, and the ship's hosts Liz Harlin and Josh Jensen were kind enough to model as their schedules allowed. This was a very productive site for lush soft coral that popped with amazing vibrancy when washed with strobe light. |
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Day 3
Our dinghy started the day at Maytag (most morning dives are launched at 7:30 after a light continental breakfast. Full breakfast is served after this dive. In fact, all meals and snacks are very much planned around the diving schedule, and the diving schedule is planned to coincide with optimal tides. This is, after all, very much a dedicated dive boat, with optimal diving as Priority One). This was a large pinnacle washed by 100-foot + visibility. From the 100 foot bottom all the way to the top of the bommie at 25-feet there were pockets of intense filter feeders ... crinoids, giant gorgonian fans, black coral, and of course massive soft coral trees. The diving is timed to hit enough current to engorge the soft corals, yet not so much as to be too hard to hold position for a shot.
At Mellow Yellow we were briefed on the possibility that there would be a large yellow frogfish to be found, and sure enough it was right where we were advised. Larger, and more colorful than most of her Caribbean cousins, this frogfish was nicely situated amid some red and yellow encrusting sponges. However, as nice as this one encounter was, the real marquee attraction of this dive is the yellow soft corals that adorn the main pinnacle, and the saddle adjoining it to a smaller, deeper nearby pinnacle. This is the dive for which Velvia was made ... gold anthias, yellow soft corals, crimson sea fans, and turquoise water. Having said all that, and being blown away on this dive, we did dive Mellow Yellow again later in the week at a time when the currents were not as propitious. No current whatsoever, and therefore totally a different dive. Good of course, but the right combination of current flow is what transforms the merely "good" into "amazing" in these waters. |
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Day 4
Once we got to the part of the dive they call "the bleachers" the bait is attached to a line on the bottom. Red sea bass swarm the bait, so much so actually that I think the gray reef sharks tend to stay off a bit. But the bait does bring them within camera range, so even though you may not get the definitive "bite" shot you should be in position for at least a fish ID photo. We probably had a dozen or so gray reefs come in, although I think about 5 feet was as close as any came. No doubt they do get more rowdy feeds some days, but the whole combination of the drift dive along the channel, the pelagic encounters with the jacks and barracuda, and of course the sharks, makes Nigali a very popular part of the itinerary. A large patch of lettuce coral found in very shallow water is very scenic as well, and makes for an interesting place to offgass at the end of a dive likely to have loaded most divers to saturation.
Two dives to Nigali Pass and a village trip would be a full day by most standards, but NAI'A offers another late afternoon dive and a night dive. I passed on the night dive, but Jim's Alley in the afternoon was a good muck hunt for critters. This is a pinnacle that no doubt offers good visibility at times, but we had to choose timing according to optimal conditions for the drift at Nigali, which meant Jim's suffered from an outgoing tide pulling turbid water from the flats. Still, it was productive for those with the right lens, and even more so for the shooters in the other dinghy who went to nearby Anthias Avenue specifically to shoot the Fiji icon, blue ribbon eels. |
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Day 5
That night aboard NAI'A we had our own little kava party, with local crew providing the musical accompaniment. Given their warm hospitality, this is probably a good opportunity to give a big thank you to Josh and Liz, our cruise directors, and entire NAI'A crew for a job exceptionally well done. Day 6We remain in the Namena Marine Park for this day as well, visiting Two Thumbs Up, actually separate dive sites known as Thumb I and Thumb II. Thumb II is a narrow pinnacle, rising from the sand bottom at 80 feet to less than 15 feet. There are some deeper ridges nearby, but the school of golden sweeper and crimson sea fan, as well as the soft coral draped ledges make this a wide angle delight, and give little reason to look beyond this one single pinnacle. Thumb I lacks the golden sweepers, but might be slightly the lusher of the two. Hard call though, as both are quite beautiful. |
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Day 7
Whole Shebang is a giant reef structure with one side bottoming out near 70 feet, but offering a dramatic wall we saw only in passing while the current whipped us along. What we did see was quite impressive however, with (no surprise here) lots of soft corals, anthias, and gorgonian. Interestingly, once past the drift portion of the dive the reef then opens onto a wide hard coral plateau with very pristine boulder and antler corals. Perhaps you've heard of the coral bleaching episode that hammered Fiji a few years back? Well, it is testament to the resiliency of the coral reef, and particularly the water quality here, that these corals have come back so well, so fast. The whole time we were out on charter I saw only one crown of thorns sea star, and no blatant effects of coral bleaching. I don't doubt that damaged reefs are still there somewhere, but NAI'A chooses to accentuate the positive, and apparently there is plenty of that to accentuate! What we saw was in excellent shape, and really much improved over the itinerary presented last time I visited these islands. Part of it no doubt has to do with the cruise refinement mentioned earlier, but I think much also has to do with the sheer quality of the Fiji underwater environment. There is an interesting part of the NAI'A website that addresses the phenomena of why the diving tends to be so good in the Bligh Water section. See http://www.naia.com.fj/diving/index.html
Our afternoon consisted of some over/under photo ops on a coral plateau rising to within 5 feet of the surface, and a return to Mellow Yellow, sadly absent the yellow frogfish and the Viagra-ed soft corals. Still, the abundance of anthias and gorgonian made for strong wide angle scenics. The most memorable dive of the day however had to be the last dive at GoMo, for if the current was ripping before, this was ripping on steroids. I did manage to shoot one roll of wide angle, but holding position to try for a quality fish shot was an exercise in futility. At the end of the dive all any of us could do was hold on tenaciously to purge ourselves of nitrogen on this last dive of the trip, and then cut loose for a "spirited" blue water safety stop. Being the inventor of the SOS safety sausage devise (http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-sos.php) I was very happy to have one to deploy at the end of this particular dive! Being far from the dinghy in choppy seas and failing light, it was a certain comfort to know I had a visual locator easily at hand. Having said that, the NAI'A crew had been very good all week about being right there with the chase boat when we finished our dives, but it can't hurt to give them a helping hand when the conditions prove tenuous.
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Trip Prep for NAI'AThe Boat
The camera room is located immediately adjacent to the dive deck and has storage and workspace for more than a dozen photographers, their gear and storage of cases. Both 110 and 220 volt charging strips are available. There are more than enough for everyone! NAI'A features elaborate provisions for professional and amateur photographers: E-6 processing, camera and video rentals, a multisystem VCR and television able to play miniDV in NTSC format and VHS in both NTSC and PAL formats, slide projector and light box, and a dedicated camera room.
Just between the salon and the camera room is our spacious dive deck. The dive deck on NAI'A is unconventional in several respects. First, it is huge; bridging the entire 30ft beam of the ship, and it is located amidships away from the clutter of the working deck aft. During the charter, the crew takes care of filling the tanks and loading gear into the skiffs from the aft dive platform, while divers have the uncluttered dive deck forward in which to suit up and listen to the very thorough dive briefings. Only masks, fins, and camera gear are stored forward, while the heavy and unwieldy tanks and BCs remain aft. Divers returning to the dive deck are treated to hot deck showers and clean dry towels at the end of every dive. NAI'A has a small laundry aboard where towels and tablecloths are washed daily. |
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Travel & Rendezvous Information: Arrival in NadiTo clear customs and immigration in Fiji you must show your valid passport and return ticket. As a tourist, you do not need a visa for stays less than 120 days. Before departing the airport, change some money at the bank in the international terminal (which opens to correspond with flight arrivals). For purchases on NAI'A, US dollars, traveler's checks, Amex, Visa and MasterCard are OK. Transfer to NAI'A
If you plan to arrive in Fiji one or more days prior to the charter, you should book Friday night in a Nadi hotel or arrive at the Nadi airport from the outer islands by noon on Saturday. If you arrive in Fiji Saturday morning, you will probably want to book a day room in Nadi in which to rest until pick-up time at 1:00pm. Please make sure to notify our office of your pick-up location well in advance. On-board you will receive an orientation while your luggage is taken to your stateroom. Light snacks will be served as we make our way to the afternoon's dive site. VoyagingNAI'A's precise itinerary is weather dependent, however the first location will provide ideal check-out dive conditions - relatively shallow and calm, but still spectacular. No major crossing is made until after the first day - there's plenty of time to get your sea legs. Three dives are scheduled for the final full day, as well as time to wash and dry diving gear. Disembarking & DepartureFlight confirmations and day room bookings are made during the trip via radio to our office. On the day the charter ends, continental breakfast will be served before we bid you farewell. Air-conditioned vehicles will transfer you to your hotel in Nadi or to the airport. If your flight home departs in the evening, we recommend you book a day room where you can store your luggage while you tour for the day and relax and shower before the flight. |
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What to BringPack a warm sweater and pants - life at sea is cooler than in shore-based resorts, especially after multiple dives each day. We want you to enjoy the starry night sky and the fresh air! For more information on air temperature see our website www.naia.com.fj/research/weather.html Most NAI'A divers require at least a 3mm wetsuit or Polartec in our summer months (November-March). We recommend either a one-piece 5mm suit for winter, or the addition of a hood or hooded vest to your 3mm suit. Warm divers stay under longer so don't skimp on protection. For more information on Fiji temperature please see our website www.naia.com.fj/research/water.html. Note that winter months may require a 5/7mm wetsuit. The addition of a hooded vest is a good idea for Fiji at any time. Feel free to bring your choice of music, books or videos for your entertainment. NAI'A has a limited collected of CDs, tapes, paperbacks and movies that you are welcome to use. Don't forget your diving certification card! Our crew would greatly appreciate current news, science, or other magazines, as they are hard to come by here. During your cruise we will visit a Fijian village on a remote island. If you would like to bring a gift to the village, we would suggest children's school supplies as an appropriate gift. Here are a few factoids from www.scubadiving.com that will better help you prepare for your Fiji Adventure. LOCATION: Fiji lies in the southwestern Pacific, 1,750 miles northeast of Sydney, Australia. The 333 islands of the archipelago are arranged over 80,000 square miles of ocean. The islands of Viti Levu, Vanua Levu and Taveuni make up 90 percent of the nation's landmass and are home to 85 percent of the nation's population of 750,000. Many of the flight schedules from LAX seem to take around 11 hours. DOCUMENTS: U.S. and Canadian citizens will need a passport valid for more than three months from their date of entry and return ticket. You will have to pay a F$20 departure tax. CURRENCY: Live mid-market rates as of 2004.10.08 12:40:16 GMT. 1.00 USD United States Dollars = 1.73883 FJD Fiji Dollars. 1 FJD = 0.575100 USD. Credit cards are accepted at larger hotels and resorts. There are banks in all the towns, but it might not be possible to exchange traveler's checks on remote outer islands. TIPPING: Tipping is not expected and is, in fact, discouraged in some resorts. That is the stated policy. You may find porters will appreciate a tip, especially in resort settings where they do seem to expect it. Divemasters and live-aboard crew will very much appreciate a gratuity as well. CULTURE: Fijians are a modest people, and outside the resorts, you should avoid wearing anything that shows too much leg. When visiting a village or attending a church service, women must wear long pants and men are often encouraged to follow suit. HEALTH CONCERNS: Fiji is free of most tropical diseases. However, travelers may want to exercise caution in outlying areas. Tap water is generally safe to drink in all cities, resorts and urban areas. There is a hospital and recompression chamber. TIME: Fiji is 20 hours ahead of Los Angeles, 17 hours ahead of New York. ELECTRICITY: 240 volts, with three-pronged Australian-type outlets. Some resorts and live-aboards supply 110 voltage or provide converters. FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact the Fiji Visitors Bureau at (800) YEA-FIJI or visit its web site at www.bulafiji.com. |
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NAI'A Says (About the Diving)Central Fiji has the best diving, no doubt about it. This "NAI'A Triangle" of Lomaiviti, Bligh Water and Namena is the focus of our regular itineraries, covering about 500 nautical miles. NAI'A has journeyed throughout Fiji, in all directions and to every corner of the country's boundaries -- and beyond. We've found beautiful sites and dramatic attractions in every region and we still explore new places. But the central region has proved the most consistent in the quality and health of terrains, animals and conditions. Lomaiviti's coral reefs and islands are Fiji's most dynamic and varied: voracious sharks to vibrant soft corals.
Our normal itinerary for both seven and ten-day charters starts and ends in Lautoka, just north of Nadi, where the international airport is located. After an initial "checkout" dive on the afternoon of boarding, NAI'A heads north and east around the flank of the main island of Viti Levu to reach Bligh Water. Several different divesites in Bligh Water are available, including E6, Mt. Mutiny, Cat's Meow and Ravai's Wives, depending on localized weather conditions. From there we choose our sites according to weather, tides, and our passengers' inclinations. But generally we visit the islands and barrier reefs of Namena, Wakaya, and Gau. We have dived Fiji's finest reefs for nine years now, under every imaginable set of circumstances. Importantly, we've kept good records. Many sites are current-dependent and detailed local knowledge is critical in order to maximize the number of good dives in the best spots. For that reason we don't offer a fixed itinerary -- "if it's Tuesday, it must be Wakaya". Instead we tailor each voyage to the tides and weather that week. |
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Why is Central Fiji the Best?A common misconception is that the further you travel the better the diving. We also desire to explore remote locales and "get away from it all". But ecologically and globally speaking, coral reefs don't always share our goals for isolation and solitude. Related Link: Fiji Water Temperature Chart It is true, however, that offshore diving (away from the populated towns and cities) is generally better -- more prolific pristine life, clearer water, and a higher chance of exciting pelagic fish encounters. Look at the Fiji Islands as a whole; you will see that the area in the center of the country between the two main landmasses is still a long way from developed or populated areas. So why are the reefs here so significant? Well, there are five key ingredients in the perfect coral reef recipe -- all of them found in central Fiji region:
Related links: |
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