For as much exotic dive travel as I do, I haven't been to tropical Australia for quite some time. Of course, I've been the South Australia a half dozen times, and will no doubt go back again in the near future. But that's for great white sharks, another story, another time (see www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/200402sharks/ for a report on our most recent white shark adventure).

For many years the Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea were reckoned to be (see, I'm talking like an Aussie already) among the ultimate dive destinations on the planet. My recollection of these areas confirmed the superlatives ... the Coral Sea with its pristine hard corals and spectacular visibility, and the Great Barrier Reef for its abundant marine life and richly decorated bommies. However, the last time I was there was more than 12 years ago, and I was eager to see how these areas fared in the past decade. After all, if you are going to fly 26 hours to get somewhere, it ought to have some pretty damn good diving at the other end!

Of course, Australia has other appeal as well, and justifies travel for the topside beauty of the place and extraordinary diversity alone. With great cities like Sydney (one of my favorite metropolitan areas on the planet), and truly entertaining smaller scuba gateways like Cairns and Townsville; coupled with unique marquee dive attractions like the white sharks of South Australia, or the seasonal whale sharks found off Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia, any seasoned diver is going to end up in Australia in their rotation of dream dive holidays. But the specific objectives for this adventure have to do with:

• A. Arriving in Cairns and doing a couple of days general holiday there.
• B. Diving the Great Barrier Reef, particularly the best of northern reef with sites I remembered so fondly from long ago, places along the Ribbon reefs like Pixie Pinnacle and the Cod Hole.
• C. Diving the Coral Sea, specifically Bougainville and Osprey Reefs.

To that end, we (www.waterhousetours.com) chartered the Spirit of Freedom (www.spiritoffreedom.com.au), departing Cairns. I'd had friends who travel with our group extensively and had done this charter before. They recommended it as one of the best live-aboards they had ever been on in terms of amenities and service. So, as we valued their experience and opinion, we booked the boat. For sure, she looks good in pictures, and she is the size vessel I'd feel comfortable traveling these kinds of offshore distances. We figured, "let's give it a go, mate" (Aussie inflection implied).

Boat details:

• Length – 37 meters/120 feet
• Beam – 7.1 meters/24 feet
• Speed – 12 knots
• Displacement – 250 tons
• Fresh water – unlimited via desalinization
• Passengers – 28 max/ limited to 23 for this charter
• Crew – 8
• AC throughout
• Electronic stabilizers
• 12 cabins, each with ensuite head/shower
• 2 Bauer 21 cfm compressors
• DNAx Nitrox membrane system
• 2 x 4.8 meter/16 foot dive tenders
• Suunto dive computers/Oceanic Nitrox computers for hire
• Ship's computer with CD burner and digital imaging software
• Wide screen projector TV with DVD library
• Ship's bar, with Australian wines and spirits, tab to be run throughout charter
• Satellite phone/fax
• Range – 6,000 nautical miles
• Wide screen projector TV
• Tanks – 65 or 99 CF aluminum cylinders

Day 1

Travel – Cairns is a very accessible international gateway via a multitude of carriers, but it seemed most of our guests chose either Qantas or Continental, primarily as a function of their frequent flier miles so they could fly first or business class. I went Continental via Miami/Houston/Honolulu/Guam/Cairns; which sounds horrible on paper, but was actually quite nice. We were never on the ground at any of the connections for more than an hour, and the departure gate was always very near the arrival gate. Furthermore, going direct to Cairns avoids the hassles of baggage restrictions for domestic travel within Australia that anyone connecting via another Australia gateway might experience. Of course, international travel, even connecting through Sydney, is not considered "domestic" travel for bags are checked interline. But if someone were to stop in Sydney, clear customs, take a few days holiday there, and then fly up to Cairns, they would need to be prepared for greater weight restrictions on both checked bags and carry-on. The Qantas route is typically LAX to Sydney direct, and then on to Cairns. Most of our guests took this flight and found it very efficient.

As an aside, our guests are hard-core photo enthusiasts, and have to travel with heavy cameras, strobes, and back-ups for back-ups. One way or another, most shooters are going to have to pack very carefully, or be prepared to pay for overweight. For me, it was $85 for a third checked bag, separated out at the ticket counter when I found my new, commodious Stahlsac dive bag now holds 78 pounds of stuff, and I was only allowed 70. It was very interesting to hear everyone's strategies for getting to international destinations under the new, more stringent, weight restrictions. Some of the solutions:

• Fly business or first class, where the weight restrictions are more relaxed, particularly for carry-on. (Duh ... why wouldn't a person rather be in first class when they can?)
• Travel with lighter gear. Some are opting for smaller Inon Z220 strobes instead of their traditional heavy primary strobes as two strobe heads can go in the same space with less weight.
• Traveling with lighter carry cases, the Storm hard case being the post universally popular case now showing up on our photo tours.
• Opting for smaller, lighter BCs and dive gear.
• Keeping clothing in very light ballistic nylon bags inside a dive bag, rather than checked as two separate bags.

Day 2 & 3

Cairns – Most of our group checked into the Tradewinds Esplanade as it is conveniently located, quite nice, and reasonably priced compared to some of the other hotels along the waterfront:

Tradewinds Esplanade
137 The Esplanade
Cairns 4870 AU
617-4053-0300 phone
617-4051-8649 fax

It is within walking distance of the shops and restaurants downtown, and while not wi-fi enabled just yet, they assure us they are installing it shortly. Broadband in the lobby, on their computers, is cheap and usually there are computers available. There are plenty of other accommodations options in Cairns, including condos available for short-term rental.

Once in Cairns, our first priority was a shower and some sleep, in either order. But once you are awake and looking for something to do in Cairns, the options are staggering. You can take a train into the rainforest and a skyrail cable car home. You can go white water rafting. There are all kinds of day trips to the reef for scuba or snorkel, but we would be seeing far better marine options farther offshore, so nobody even considered that. Or, you can do what I did, take a helicopter tour of the Great Barrier Reef one day, and go hot air ballooning the next.

The Great Barrier Reef is so vast; I knew the only way to show its structure at a glance, to set the mood, was via an aerial shot. Granted, this is not an inexpensive endeavor, $1800 Australian dollars for an hour in the air, but divided between three of us, it was definitely a worthwhile experience. We booked a helicopter from Sunlover Helicopters, www.sunloverheli.com.au because they frequently work with Spirit of Freedom and came highly recommended. They agreed to remove all the doors, so all three shooters had a good view of the reef, and they also agreed to arrange a rendezvous with one of their other helicopters so we could get the perspective of the reef aerial with their copter in the frame for an added element of visual interest.

They picked us up at noon at our hotel, and by 12:45 we were airborne, taking advantage of the best light of the day. The water near Cairns is pretty murky, owing to the runoff from nearby rivers, but offshore the water clears dramatically and reveals the intricate structure of reefs, sand, and deep-water drop-off in various shades of blue and turquoise. Our pilot was quite talented, as you would expect of someone who does this exact same thing every day of his working life. In fact, just the day before he had flown a Discovery TV crew with a gimbaled HD camera and they actually caught a breaching humpback from 100 feet above the waterline. Made their day for sure. While we did see a humpback, it was in the more turbid water closer to shore and did not present a photo opportunity. However, what we did capture was pretty spectacular. This was a terrific way to spend an hour.

The rest of this day was spent shopping and dining. Well, a little drinking was also involved, but we didn't party too very hearty, because we had a 4:30 AM departure from the hotel planned the next day to go ballooning with Hot Air, www.hotair.com.au. While the early departure was at first intimidating, it is necessary because we have an hour drive up into the tablelands, and that allows us to see the balloon in the dark, transilluminated by the fire from the gases that keep the balloon aloft. That, by itself, was a spectacular sight, and helped fuel our excitement. Having been thoroughly briefed by the DVD on the bus ride to the launch site, our group of 16 had our own private gondola, and just as first light revealed the farmlands, we lifted off with three other balloons nearby.

The short story is, if you come to Cairns, do not miss this experience. I had never done ballooning before and found it to be photographically inspiring of course, but simply fun. It is a very quiet means of aviation, except when the fuel jets are running of course, and while the equipment was all very new, safe, and high-tech, there was something very timeless about drifting wherever the wind took us, with our only control being what altitude caught what wind. We did a 30-minute balloon ride, which is actually enough, and after a champagne hot breakfast were back at the hotel by 10:00 AM. The Spirit of Freedom crew then picked us up for the transfer to the boat, and the next phase of our adventure had begun. So far, so very, very good!

Day 3 (continued)

The Spirit of Freedom is very impressive even at first glance. She has a "yachty" feel about her, while being big and stable at the same time. We were shown to our cabins, introduced to crew, and left alone to assemble dive gear, and more importantly, figure out where our camera operations would stage.

I knew in advance that the Spirit of Freedom has never handled a digitally immersed photography group like ours. We had 19, mostly large, housings for digital SLR cameras, digital point-and-shoot, and videos aboard. Oh yeah, there was one token Nikonos V as well, for available light use with a 15mm lens. Anyway, the point was, their existing camera table, 4 feet by 3 feet, was not going to cut it for this group!

To their credit, they did come up with a plan. They installed two workstation tables in the forward salon, and so we used that whole room to assemble and service housings, as well as a charging station with both 110 and 220 volt electric. The housings got rinsed in a large sink as soon as we finished a dive, and then the crew moved them into plastic bins on the other side of the boat, well away from dripping wetsults. The stern dive deck is large enough for the tank racks, gear storage, and fill stations; but not nearly large enough for the several camera tables a group like ours would require, so given the deck configuration, this was a workable solution.

The rest of this day was mostly dedicated to getting organized, but we did have an issue with one of the guest's bags being misrouted to Aeroflot out of Cincinnati. Gratefully, they did not end up in Moscow, but did miss the Qantas connections. Kudos to the Spirit of Freedom crew and Qantas who came up with the solution to have the bags flown out to us via helicopter so that no one lost a dive!

We did do one get-acquainted/check your buoyancy dive on a nearby reef out of Cairns, but in terms of quality this was very marginal. We were warned that this was not to be taken seriously, and no one did. However, some were surprised how cold the water was. This was winter in this hemisphere and it was 75 degrees. In summer they get 84 degrees, much like we do in the Florida Keys in our respective seasons. But, this time of year a 5mm and hooded vest is a good call. Everyone was well prepared to expect this water temperature, and most had multiple layers of neoprene to try out during the week. This first dive was enough to convince us to use any and all bits of thermal protection.

As an aside, I used a new Henderson 3mm Insta-Dry wetsuit along with a hooded vest, and I was quit comfortable. This is brand new wetsuit technology, and I was very favorably impressed. It allowed me to dive with the comfort and minimal weights required of the 3mm, yet with the thermal protection of a 5mm. This was a big advantage in my opinion. There were other advantages to the suit as well, which are well documented at www.hendersonusa.com/product_instadry.html

Even with 3 and 4 dives per day, I was never cold in the water, which was pretty amazing really for a 3mm suit. My hands did get cold one day after an 82-minute dive, which made me think I'd get a pair of Henderson Insta-Dry gloves for our trip to the Galapagos next summer. Plus, down around Punta Vicente (the "Icebox") I'll need the 5mm version of the suit.

Day 4

Bougainville Reef, Coral Sea – We steamed overnight from the Great Barrier Reef to the Coral Sea, in particular a rather small reef complex known as Bougainville reef. The visibility was good, maybe 100 feet, but not the 200-foot water clarity of my recollection. Furthermore, there were not the pristine stands of hard coral as I remembered. There were some beautiful soft corals down around 90 – 100 feet, but in terms of both marine life and coral cover, it was good, not great.

I asked our cruise director, Paul, when had the heavy seas come through? For obviously this was not a diver damage issue, as Bougainville is exceedingly rarely visited. Nor would it be water quality concerns, for this reef is very far offshore. Paul confirmed there had been a category 5-cyclone blasting right over this reef as recently as March, just 5 months ago. Well, with that as a time reference, it looked darn nice indeed! But, truthfully, we were challenged finding photo-ops by the time we'd finished our three dives this day at Bougainville. There were some cool little caves in which diver silhouettes could be framed, and the wide angle down below 80 feet was pretty impressive. But, overall, the fish were skittish and the coral decoration relatively sparse. When I found myself actually considering a hermit crab as a photographic subject on the third dive of the day, the realization dawned that maybe we should look elsewhere for inspiration.

Not that we would have had a choice anyway, for tonight the weather forecast was calling for 30-knot winds and there is no protection for the boat (or the divers) at Bougainville. Let's hear it for satellite communications and accurate weather predictions, all of which gave us plenty of time to stage a leisurely evening retreat back to the protection of the Great Barrier Reef. There were already the rusting hulks of two ships on the reef at Bougainville, and we had no intention of being the third.

Day 5

Actually, we meant to dive the best sites of the northern Great Barrier Reef, plus both Bougainville and Osprey Reefs in the Coral Sea, so having the weather force us back to the Barrier Reef cost the Spirit of Freedom some fuel, but really didn't affect our plans. In fact, diving the Cod Hole this day turned out to be a real treat.

Years ago I was out on a white shark trip with Ron and Valerie Taylor, Australia's most legendary underwater photographers. One night, over a few glasses of wine, Valerie told the story of how the potato cod came to be protected. Actually, both she and Ron were champion spear fishers. But, just because they took fish for sport never lessened their appreciation for the beautiful creatures in the sea. They admired the potato cod for their unique beauty, but also felt it hardly fair that people were spearing these puppy-dog-friendly grouper nearly to extinction. Valerie championed a campaign to protect the potato cod, which ultimately got both grass root and national political support.

The potato cod became a protected species, and the Cod Hole one of the most iconic dive sites in the Great Barrier Reef. Good on ya Valerie!

Having dived the Cod Hole a decade before, this was one of those rare situations in diving where the site had actually improved. The coral remained in excellent shape. Remarkable really, for the same cyclone passed through this area as well, but the outer reef somehow protected the coral structures along the inner reef where the cod are found. There were excellent stands of delicate staghorn and antler corals, and giant boulder corals. The water clarity was probably 90 feet this day, and even though it was bumpy outside the reef, where we dived was calm ... maybe a one-foot chop.

We had three dives, plus a night dive, planned here this day and found them all to be very productive no matter what lens was used. In the early morning light I used a 50mm macro with a dome port for environmental fish portraits. There was a potato cod directly under the boat as soon as I jumped in, so I got the fish ID shots I needed in the first 10 minutes of the first dive. There were other grouper species along the reef as well, and plenty of cleaning stations. In fact, I don't recall ever seeing more active cleaning stations on a reef before. It seemed everywhere I looked there were grouper, bannnerfish, and surgeonfish lined up around some coral head waiting to be groomed. The fact that they were occupied, and more significantly, that this was a totally protected area with no spearfishing or even hook-and-line angling, made for abundant marine life that was easy to approach for photography.

The second dive was a fish feed, whereby Paul took down a bucket of bait to feed the potato cod, so most of us opted for wide angle on this dive. We formed a circle around the action, and while the cod stirred up the sand, as is typical of an active fish feed, it did provide close proximity to the cod and the other incidental fish attracted to the feed. More significantly, it kept the satiated cod in the vicinity after the feed, and it was easier to get fish portraits of them in clear water. I found one at a cleaning station as well, so by the end of the second dive I had a wealth of potato cod images. I was so glad to be here with a 4GB card on a high quality digital SLR as compared to the film capture on previous trips. 36 or 72 shoots per dive (for one or two cameras) is simply not enough for a reef this good, in only 20 to 60 feet of water.

As the ambient light dimmed towards the end of the day, I took a 100mm macro lens down, and found this was extraordinarily productive as well. There were plenty of small butterflyfish flitting among the hard corals, and tight shots of the cleaner wrasse were now a possibility. Probably the highlight of the dive was a friendly flowery grouper, totally oblivious to my presence as it opened its mouth repeatedly to be cleaned. There was also a very large bumphead wrasse very aggressively munching on coral. Watching this fish chew large scallops out of the table corals reminded me that there are natural forces that affect our coral reefs constantly, including foul weather and invasive marine life, that are far more destructive than diver impact could ever be. However, this obviously does not lessen our responsibility to dive with good buoyancy control. Given that lots of beginning divers must come to the Cod Hole, and yet the coral remains in good shape, I deduce that diver awareness and dive operator vigilance must be contributing favorably.

Day 6

We spent the night anchored in a protected bay off Lizard Island, the $1000 (au$) a night resort favored by nature enthusiasts and deep-water anglers. We decided to take time for a nature hike, for those so inclined, while others looked for some over/under photo-ops. The less adventurous walked the broad strand of beach or hiked back to see the flying foxes (a species of bat) back in the mangroves. Those more physically inclined this morning hiked a trail to the top of the ridgeline for a scenic overlook where Captain Cook had stood centuries before while plotting his navigation route through the Ribbon Reefs. Several of us found a shallow reef with some large tridacna clams near the shore that, despite the choppy conditions, made for good over/under potential.

By 11:00 this morning we were steaming 2 hours away for a dive on Pixie Pinnacle. This is a site I remember fondly from a commercial shoot years ago. Alcan Aluminum hired me to shoot a picture of a scuba diver wearing a scuba tank, which was of course made from aluminum. Now, I could have done so in my home waters off Key Largo for a lot less money, but they wanted this to be done "Down Under Down Under", and I was happy to comply. We went to Pixie Pinnacle and found it lavishly decorated with soft coral and crinoid, and the fish to be quite approachable. Under those conditions, with my wife Barbara modeling, the shot was a slam-dunk, and one component of a lovely campaign.

Now, a decade later, this is one site that has no doubt suffered from diver impact. It is a very small pinnacle, especially as it tapers to the top. The very best part of the bommie is from 45 feet to within a few feet of the surface, so any group of divers will swim repeatedly by the better (read "more fragile") parts. Accidental contact and percolation from exhaust bubbles is inevitable, and those who know this site from the old days will see a change. For most of those on this charter, seeing it for the first time, it remains quite impressive. And actually, once you look past the gorgonia fans that aren't as lush as they once were, and begin to notice the marine life, this remains a very spectacular dive.

There are plenty of anthias flitting about above the hard corals, many of which remain remarkably pristine. And the coral groupers are far more bold and approachable here than in other areas. While we had seen lionfish occasionally on previous dives, Pixie presented multiple encounters, both common and fire lionfish. There were plenty of the other usual suspects, Moorish idol, various butterflyfish, and the like; but we had been briefed that this dive might also offer the opportunity to capture a weedy scorpionfish and a stonefish. Both of these are very unusual, and while I'd nailed stonefish several times before on other trips, the weedy scorpionfish was totally new to me.

We missed both species on the first dive at Pixie, but our dive staff found them pretty much where they said they would be on the second dive. One of the nice things about our group of photographers is that they are very sharing of photo-opportunities, so rather than bogarting the weedy, my friend Ana Maria swam over to me very excitedly and tried to explain what there was to photograph on the other side of the bommie. With wild gestures she tried to pantomime something obviously significant, but I had no clue what she meant. However, one click of the review button on her housed D2X showed me a beautiful weedy scorpionfish, and I was quite happy to abandon the anthias I was shooting and follow her to the fish.

There, Paul was using his flashlight to point out this exceedingly cryptic creature. Good thing too, for by now it was dark and the bulb on my model light was burned out. No way I could have focused on this fish, in the dark and under a ledge, without a little help from my friend. So, while Paul became my auto-focus assist light, I found small access hole where I could lay my camera near without damaging the fragile sea fan the weedy was using for camouflage. For me, that was the high point of the day, for it is not so often that I get to photograph a species of fish I'd never seen before!

Night divers to this site saw not only the scorpionfish and the stonefish, but a wobegong as well.

A note regarding Spirit of Freedom vessel and crew

Our first favorable impressions of the boat are reinforced during our time at sea. She is exceedingly stable, with gyroscopic stabilizers on the keel adding to the comfort we feel in bumpy seas. Even the crossing back to Osprey Reef later in the week is largely free of the rolling and pounding a lesser vessel might suffer. The cabins are comfortable, and of course all have ensuite facilities. Rearranging the normal accommodations as we had to do to handle our photo gear worked out fine. The two tables they installed in the lounge saw plenty of use as we prepped cameras for the 4 dives per day (5 for night divers), and there was plenty of space on the floor for when we had to leave cameras unattended during potentially rough crossings. The tiny camera table on the port dive deck is totally inadequate for a group our size. However, our newly evolved system where crew would rinse cameras and then place them in individual bins on the starboard side of the boat worked beautifully. They were already on the ground, so no one had to worry about them falling off, and they could not bump into one another either. Whenever we were ready we'd carry them back to the lounge to prep, but meanwhile they were safe and protected out on the dive deck.

Any cruise is only as good as the crew, and we were exceedingly impressed by the service orientation of this crew. All were dedicated to our needs, and while not intrusive, were always there when needed. Special kudos goes to the chef, Rob, for cuisine varied and extraordinary. Special dietary needs were handled (vegan, no garlic, nor dairy, etc.) brilliantly, and each day was an adventure in dining. The Nitrox was always 32% (+/- 1%), the dive briefings were thorough and accurate, and the diving was presented in a safe, logical manner. To our friends Lenny and Beth who recommended the Spirit of Freedom, good on ya. It was good advice indeed.

Day 7

We spent the night at near Pixie, but steamed early the next morning to a nearby site called Challenger Bay. As normal, the vessel tied up stern to the reef so we could simply take a giant stride onto the dive site. This was our first morning of overcast weather, but no real drama because Challenger Bay is so very good for fish and macro photography. Of course, the pristine hard corals rising from 30 feet nearly to the surface would have been inspiring had the sun been shining, but there were plenty of small things to keep me motivated with my 100mm macro lens.

A large school of trevally jack swirled just beneath the boat, and a smaller school of chevron barracuda continually worked the front of the reef face. Small bommies occasionally dotted the seafloor, from 25 feet to 72 feet, with each one seemingly more productive that the one before. The deepest one rose maybe 20 feet off the bottom, and was populated by opal sweeper, bannerfish, and a brazen coral grouper I was able to capture ensconced in a field of coral polyps (OK ... a small field, but hey, I only had a macro lens). A lovely leaf scorpionfish added to the appeal of this bommie. On the return to the boat I found a great set-up with spinecheek anemonefish, and amid the hard corals all sorts of butterflyfish with long snouts, specially adapted to finding prey among the many species of antler coral making up the reef bank.

Two dives at Challenger and then we were off to Lighthouse Bommie. Like Pixie, this is a solitary pinnacle rising from 85 feet to within a few feet of the surface. But unlike Pixie, which was pretty boring at the base, the seafloor here offered large schools of goatfish and blue-lined snapper, as well as blue-spot stingrays in the sand. I spent maybe 15-minutes at depth working the schooling fish, and then spiraled up the pinnacle to maybe 20 feet where a tubastrea encrusted overhang was home to a large squirrelfish and a half-dozen or so bigeye. We were briefed on the probability of finding a turtle on a particular ledge, and sure enough, there he was, sleeping but keeping a watchful eye on all the happy snappers intruding on his slumber. None of which really seemed to bother him, and as is our norm, each shooter got a few pix and then moved on, leaving the photo-op intact for the next. Actually, for those who did a night dive here, there were at least five turtles.

This is quite a tiny area, particularly at the top of the pinnacle, and really needs to be dived in smaller groups. So, we staged our dives in two groups, and found it a more comfortable and productive experience.

Day 8

The visibility on Pixie, Challenger Bay, and Lighthouse has not been stellar, maybe a fuzzy 50 – 60 feet, but the fish and macro photography has been outstanding. Clearly (or not so clearly, as the case may be) the nutrients that step on water clarity contribute to the quality and quantity of the marine life. However, we were ready for a dose of clear water and pelagic life, so we ran back to the Coral Sea, specifically, Osprey Reef.

Shark diving is the lure at North Horn. In this morning's dive briefing we are told we will be doing a shark feed on the second dive at North Horn, and to expect 30 sharks on a bad day, or in excess of 50 sharks, mostly gray reef and white tip reef sharks, on a good day. On a great day, we might have all of the above, plus a chance for a couple of silvertips and maybe even a great hammerhead. However, the first dive was to be sans bait.

We dropped into the water with water clarity in the 120-foot range. The wall slopes precipitously here, and there are lovely soft corals down around the 80 feet depth and beyond. Not Fiji-esque concentrations of soft corals, mind you, but very nice individual stands in a variety of hue. We saw several potato cod here, but the big attraction for me on this first dive at North Horn were the white tip reef sharks lying about on the bottom. Of course we had seen them on many other dives, but here they were more approachable, and offered better backgrounds.

About 15-minutes into the dive the gray reefs began to show up. Not that they came close enough to shoot, but it was pretty obvious the word had gone out through the shark-grapevine ... Spirit of Freedom was here and they were going to feed us soon.

The second dive is the marquee dive of North Horn. We all situated around a natural coral amphitheater, and once we were all in place, the crew pulled down a garbage can full of fish heads strung along a stainless cable. The action began the moment Paul lifted the lid on the can, and a float held the tethered chum into the mid-water. The action was fast, furious, and quite random for the first ten minutes or so. At least 50 sharks pummeled the bait, while various grouper and snapper milled about looking for whatever detritus might come raining down.

Between the cloud of blood and shred flesh, and the frenetic pace of the shark action, I'm sure we all got a bunch of run-of-the-millographs. I felt the need to get closer. But to do so, I would be in everyone else's way, and probably make the crew rather nervous as well. After all, we were about a 15-hour steam from Cairns, and not a good place to get too aggressive about approaching feeding sharks.

Back on the boat after the dive, I did see a few pretty nice shark images on several computers. So, close passes did indeed happen fairly often it seemed. Obviously, everyone saw plenty of sharks, and gratefully several of us were able to capture the sharks on media. For sure it was a fun dive to do, but as several of the group have been with me for Caribbean reef shark feeds, the gray reefs in the passes of French Polynesia, and even great white shark cage dives, this one was only a 6 on the 10-point adrenaline meter. However, a few of the guests had never been on a shark dive before, and for them it rated much higher no doubt.

Around the Bend was the mid-day dive de jour. This had the chance of being a terrific wide-angle dive, but, according to the briefing, we expected to see a manta ray cleaning station down at about 110-feet on a small pinnacle. There was current that was meant to sweep us gently to the pinnacle, but the current was absent this dive. So, we had to kick continuously past very impressive stands of soft coral along the wall to get to the pinnacle where the mantas weren't. Presumably, the same lack of current that made our drift difficult drove the mantas elsewhere. For sure, it would be hard for a manta to hold position to be cleaned without some current to swim against. No doubt this could have been a great dive, and probably is most days when the current is running as expected. But for us, this day, it was not.

Day 9

This is, regrettably, our last day out at sea. Some of our guests have mid-day flights tomorrow, so the crew offers a shallow first dive, which is actually quite nice. Clam Garden is more-or-less separated into two distinct dives, although a motivated swimmer could do both in a single dive. Swim along the massive bank of hard corals rising from 20 feet to the surface, reef on left, and you'll come to a large school of small barracuda. They swarm about in schools tight enough to capture with a 60mm or 105mm macro lens, but are a bit widely dispersed for a wide angle. Still, there are several hundred in this school, and it is fascinating to watch. The intact staghorn corals here host quite a variety of small reef dwellers as well.

Reef to right presents a number of massive tridacna clams. Of course, there is pristine hard coral here as well, both boulder and antler variety, but these clams are so unusual most places these days that it was very refreshing to see such massive, healthy specimens here.

Steve's Bommie is considered to be one of their most popular macro dives. Personally, I enjoyed the large schools of goatfish and blue-lined snapper cloaking the base of the pinnacle at 80 feet. We were briefed about a photogenic gorgonia with a resident long—nosed hawkfish, which sure enough was there. But, the highlight was the small fish and anthias dotting the top 20 feet of the bommie. I found a friendly sea turtle resting on a coral ledge, seemingly indifferent to my repeated flashes. A porcelain crab on a bright chartreuse anemone caught my attention while offgassing at 15-feet, and became my final underwater image of this tour.

Reflections

The Spirit of Freedom did a fine job delivering dive adventure to our group in a safe and very cordial manner. We made some new friends and had a great time aboard. As for the diving, I was surprised to find so many small, cryptic creatures along the Great Barrier Reef. Some areas were better than I'd remembered, especially the Cod Hole, while others like Pixie Pinnacle had lost considerable decoration in the past decade. However, the divemasters have become far more skilled at pointing out photographic subjects, for sure that is the case on Spirit of Freedom and I suspect it is the case on other boats that cater to underwater photographers. Especially now, in the digital era, our dive guides see on our laptop screens the kind of subjects that give us thrills.

The combination of the clear water and good chance for pelagic and shark action in the Coral Sea contrasts nicely with the rich fish life found on the Ribbon Reefs in the northern Great Barrier Reef. This, combined with the considerable terrestrial attractions of Australia, makes for an excellent dive holiday and a productive photo expedition.

Spirit of Freedom FAQ:

Where do you depart from?
We depart from Trinity Wharf, Cairns at 12 noon

Are transfers included?
Yes, we provide complimentary transfers from hotels in the Cairns city area. Please note that we do not offer transfers from the airport, the beaches to the north of Cairns, or Port Douglas. A taxi from the airport to the wharf will cost around AU$15.

Do you have somewhere I can store excess luggage?
Secure storage is available at the Spirit of Freedom office for any excess luggage. We will collect this from you prior to boarding the boat/ plane. Please separate from your other bags and make sure this bag(s) is clearly labeled with your name.

What essential items should I bring on board?
Personal items and toiletries, swimwear, hat, sunscreen, casual clothing, and sweatshirt in the winter (May – Sept)

Will I need a power adaptor?
Australian domestic power standard is 240V @ 50htz, with 3 pronged power sockets. You may need to bring your own international power adaptor to use your electrical appliances or battery chargers. Note from Steve ... I have asked that power strips be available to us. Scotty, the ship's engineer, is aware that we are big power consumers for charging digital batteries and computers. He realizes most modern chargers are 110/220, so it is not so much that we need converters, but because the part that plugs in the wall is different, we will need adapters. I strongly recommend everyone bring a few of these for their own use, both in local hotels and aboard the vessel. See www.familyonboard.com/intlplugGndadapters.html for some very nice options, from the very simple adapters, to the more sophisticated power strip with surge protector.

Is there phone and email contact on board the boat?
Most of the time on board Spirit of Freedom you will be out of mobile phone range. We do have a satellite communication system on board that allows you to enjoy email and phone communications to anywhere in the world for only USD$3.50 per minute.

This can be set either prior to your trip or whilst on board Spirit of Freedom.

Go to the web site www.seawave.net

More Infomation

Find new user and create your own user login, password and email address. Eg. Joebloggs@seawave.net

Once on board you can simply log in through the ship's phone, computer or even your own wireless set up in your laptop.

Charges of USD $3.50 per minute can be charged automatically to your preferred credit card. You can even print your own usage report at the end of the trip.

What food and beverages are provided?
Lunch and dinner are provided on the day of departure, with 4 meals a day on ensuing days, and breakfast on the day of return to Cairns. The 4 meals include continental breakfast followed by a cooked breakfast after the first dive of the day. Special dietary requirements can be catered to with prior notice. Tea, coffee and fountain water are always available for self service. Australian wines and soft drinks are served complimentary with the evening meal. Outside of this time we operate a ships bar with beer, mixed drinks, wine selection. Drinks can be placed on a tab for payment at the end of your trip.

How can people reach me in an emergency?
The Spirit of Freedom carries CDMA phones and satellite communications. Should an EMERGENCY arise and you need to be contacted on board, please our office phone is + 61 7 4040 6450 or email info@spiritoffreedom.com.au to have a message relayed to you.

Do you accommodate for mobility impaired passengers?
Due to lack of accommodation on the main deck, steep stairwells, and hatch combings, the Spirit of Freedom is not a suitable vessel for people with mobility impairments.

We are two large people, what is the best cabin for us?
The Stateroom is the only cabin on board with a queen size bed. The Ocean View cabins have double bed only configuration. Many of the Double/Twin cabins have a double bed under with single bed over, if you wish to take your own beds. Note from Steve ... Sandi will have already made room assignments based on your expressed preferences for room category, and if relevant, roommate preference. Should you have any specific questions in advance of the trip, please feel free to contact her at phototours@aol.com

Can I rent an underwater camera on the boat?
Yes, Olympus 529 Digital 4 megapixel including camera housing and CD burners are available on board.

I have my own digital camera. Do you have an option to download on board?
Yes, for a small charge. We have an EMAC computer with CD burner on board and card readers for most digital camera types. Alternatively bring your own USB connection

QUERIES ABOUT THE DIVING

Do I need to bring my certification card?
Yes, you will need to present your certification card upon boarding, so don't forget it! Nitrox divers will need their specialty certification card as well.

Do I need a dive medical?
As a certified diver, generally a dive medical is not required. However, if you have a history of a medical condition contraindicative to diving (eg asthma, diabetes, epilepsy, heart or lung disorders) you are required to provide a diving medical certificate, from a diving medical specialist, stating that you are fit to scuba dive.

If you are participating in the Advanced or Nitrox course, you need to be medically fit to dive as indicated by completing the PADI Australia medical questionnaire. In some cases this may result in a medical being required. Please contact us if you require a copy of the medical questionnaire.

What equipment is provided?
Tanks and weight belts

What rental scuba gear is available?
By piece or by full equipment package the following scuba gear is available for rental: BCD, regulator with dive computer, wrist mount dive computer, wetsuits, torch and cylume sticks, and mask snorkel fins.

Is it required that I use a dive computer?
Yes, all divers must dive with their own dive computers., however you are welcome to also use your dive tables.

What is the recommended weight wetsuit?
Lycra skin to 3mm in the summer (Oct – Mar) and 5mm in the winter (Apr – Sept). Vests and hoods are recommended to bring for extra warmth if you are not sure. On board the rental suits are 5mm shorties, and 3mm steamers with short arms.

Note from Steve regarding diving the GBR and Coral Sea in their winter: The water will be about 74-76 degrees, and the cooler water will contribute to impressive water clarity in the Coral Sea. Those of you who are used to diving in the Florida Keys for example will probably find the water temperature like it is here in late April/early May.

Remember you will have the opportunity for as many as four dives per day, and the cumulative effect can chill you. Don't scrimp on your wetsuit, as there is very little worse than being cold on a dive. Also, be aware that neoprene loses its insulating capacity as it ages and/or gets compressed with multiple uses. That 5mm suit you bought back in 1982 may not be the one you want to take to the Coral Sea today. Wetsuit technology has significantly advanced in the past few years, making them far more comfortable to don, and far more efficient in use.

And finally, I can't overstate the convenience of a hooded vest. The additional layer of neoprene covering your trunk is an asset, and you have the option of flipping the hood up or not, depending on your personal comfort and vanity. The vest gives a much better neck seal as well so you don't have that piercing trickle of cold water rolling down your spine as you contort into weird positions to take a photo.

I was looking for a site that gave daily reef reports in the Cairns area and found www.divingcairns.com.au/reefreport.html. They do call the vis and water temperatures each day. The day I checked, July 14th, said 30 + meters on the vis at Osprey Reef in the Coral Sea (100 feet) and 25 degrees Celsius (77 degrees F). Check the site a few weeks before your charter and you'll have a sense of what to expect in terms of water temperature.

What size are the tanks?
10.5 litre and 12 litre (75 and 88 cubic feet) aluminum tanks.

What is the standard tank fitting?
US style K valve. DIN Valves are not available, and adaptors will be required.

How is the diving conducted?
The majority of our divers appreciate freedom and independence rather than being restrained in a larger group. As a guest on board Spirit of Freedom you may dive with your buddy to your pace and interests with no set limits on time, depth or style of diving outside of normal safe diving practices. An orientation dive is offered on the first dive, and a safety instructor will be in the water on most dives. Guided dives will be offered on one or two dives each day.

I'm a Nitrox diver, can I get fills on board?
Yes, nitrox fills are set at 32% at $10 per fill or package price for all dives on nitrox. Nitrox certification cards must be produced upon boarding and regulators need to be O2 approved by the manufacturer.

What is involved in the Nitrox course?
This course is comprised of Video, instructional theory, and 2 dives on nitrox. The theory element generally takes 3 to 4 hours over two days.

General Queries

What will the weather be like?
Australian seasons are the reverse of the Northern hemisphere. Our summer is DEC – FEB and winter is JUN – AUG. However as Cairns is close to the equator and in a tropical zone, we experience relatively warm winters and high humidity in the summer months. Rain is not uncommon from January to April, but while this rain can fall on Cairns due to the surrounding mountains, it is often clear out to sea.

Note from Steve ...here is a link for a 10-day forecast for Cairns:
www.weather.com forecast

When is the best time of year for diving in Cairns?
May to August being our winter and colder water can offer great visibility and beautiful clear days, but sometimes stronger winds. September thru December sees the water warm up a little, generally clear conditions and light winds, with many coral reef species breeding at this time. January through April is considered our wetter season with amazing feeding and marine action following the breeding season.

I suffer seasickness, do you have any suggestions.
Spirit of Freedom weighs 250 tonnes and is equipped with electronic stabilizers, however there is no such thing as a boat that doesn't move! Our first recommendation would be to take a cabin that is on the lower deck mid ships, and avoid the Ocean View cabins on the top deck where you will experience the most motion. We have natural ginger tablets on board, but if you require something stronger we recommend that you consult your pharmacist. Take your medication just prior to boarding; don't wait until you feel ill. It's also a good idea to try your tablets or patches before your trip to ensure you are not affected by side effects. Please note all motion sickness medication will cause dehydration and we recommend that you drink extra water. Dramamine will make most people drowsy as well. The good news is generally most people gain their sea legs after a day or two.

What happens if I am sick and can't make the trip?
We strongly recommend travel insurance to cover you against this eventuality, as our policies do not allow for refunds on late cancellations.

Do I need dive insurance?
When joining Spirit of Freedom we require all passengers (divers and sorcerers) to have evacuation and medical coverage. In the event that you do not have DAN or other, a comprehensive PADI insurance can be purchased on arrival.

What are your recommendations for flying after diving?
Spirit of Freedom recommends a minimum wait of 24 hours before flying after multiple dives. The last dive of the trip will generally be around 5:00pm the day before we return to Cairns. 24 hours is a guideline only and for maximum safety give yourself as long as possible. Please be aware that skydiving or a trip to Kuranda or the Atherton tablelands will include going to altitude.

Where is the nearest chamber?
The nearest recompression chamber is in Townsville, 450km to the south of Cairns. Spirit of Freedom requires all passengers to carry insurance to cover for a medivac from the reef. DAN Travel Assist or PADI accident and evacuation insurance (available for purchase on board) will cover emergency evacuations and time in the chamber.

What about tipping?
Tipping is not mandatory in Australia , although becoming a more common practice. It is not governed by any percentage, and any cash tip for good service received, is always appreciated by Australian dive crews. Our practice is divide tips received amongst all crew on board your trip.

Note from Steve ... It has been my experience that even in countries where tipping is not common, it remains good form to offer a gratuity on a live-aboard dive boat. The most common guideline is 10% of your charter price for good service. You will have paid either $2100 for any of the cabins below the main deck, or $2495 per person for the Ocean View cabins on the top deck. Don't feel that you have to tip according to a strict numerical equation, however. Consider $200 to $250 per person a reasonable ballpark. Note also that if you pay gratuities on credit card, it will be subject to 35% income tax. If you choose to pay in cash, your crew will have to struggle with their own conscience whether to report the income or not. No doubt a cash gratuity will be greatly appreciated.

Another good reference for general information regarding Australia travel is the government site at www.australia.com

For example; they have this to say about entry requirements.

Travelers to Australia need a valid passport or similar certificate of identification. Everyone, except travelers with Australian or New Zealand passports, requires a visa or an ETA (Electronic Travel Authority) to enter Australia. New Zealand passport holders apply for a visa upon arrival in Australia. All other passport holders must hold a visa or ETA before traveling to Australia.

Visas & ETAs
Instant Online Visas - An ETA is equivalent to a visa, but there is no stamp or label in your passport and there is no need for you to visit an Australian diplomatic office to submit an application. If you are eligible, the ETA is issued electronically by a computer system operated for the Department of Immigration and Multicultural and Indigenous Affairs (DIMIA) of Australia.

For further information on tourist visas, working holidays, business visits, students, immigration, Electronic Travel Authority (ETAs), visas and other useful contacts visit the Department of Immigration and Multicultural Affairs' website. For the location of your nearest Australian consulate go to www.immi.gov.au/contacts/overseas.htm

Passenger Movement Charge
Australia's Passenger Movement Charge (departure tax) is $A38 per person and is pre-paid with your international airline ticket. Exemptions apply to children under 12 years and 24 hour transit passengers.

There may be other government, airport and sea taxes and levies applicable which are usually included in your ticket.

Quarantine
Australia's environment is unique. Quarantine helps keep it that way. Food, plant and animal products from overseas could introduce destructive pests and diseases to the country. You can help protect our unique environment by declaring quarantine items on arrival in Australia. Quarantine items include fresh or packaged food, fruit, eggs, meat, vegetables, seeds, skins, feathers, wood and plants. The Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (AQIS) screens or X-rays all luggage and uses sniffer dogs to find high-risk products. AQIS also provides bins at international airports for travelers to dispose of quarantine items. Failure to declare food, plant and animal material could result in serious fines. For further information see the AQIS web site.

Vaccinations
Vaccinations are not required unless you have come from, or visited a yellow fever infected country or zone within six days before arrival. No other health certificate is required to enter Australia. For further information see Department of Health and Aged Care and World Health Organization.

Steve notes ... malaria is not an issue along the Queensland Coast in Australia, nor are most of the mosquito borne or hygiene driven maladies of some of the more remote areas we occasionally travel.

Taxes (GST)
Australia has a Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 10 per cent. Prices in Australia are shown as inclusive of GST. International and domestic flights purchased overseas, by non-residents, are GST free. Continuous domestic legs of international journeys are also GST free. The tax applies to pre-booked and pre-paid goods and services in Australia, which are purchased before arrival in Australia, for example tours or accommodation. The prices quoted for your Australian holiday, by your travel agent, will already include the Goods and Services Tax (GST). The total amount is payable at the time of ticketing your holiday.

Tourist Refund Scheme
Departing travelers may be able to claim a refund for GST and WET (Wine Equalization Tax) paid on goods purchased in Australia. The refund is applicable to goods, totaling $A300 (GST inclusive) or more that are being taken out of Australia. The goods must have been purchased no earlier than 30 days before leaving Australia. You can purchase several lower-priced items from one store, either at the same time or on several occasions within the 30 day period. These goods will be covered by the one tax invoice. Or you can buy goods from several stores, provided that each store's tax invoice totals at least $A300 (GST inclusive).

Tourist Refund Scheme (TRS) facilities are located at international airports and cruise-liner terminals. To claim, travelers must show their passport, international boarding pass, retailer's tax invoice and the goods.

Marine Park Levy and Management Fee
15 AUD, to be collected on board vessel.

Currency
The Australian dollar is variable as compared to the US dollar. As of today, July 17th, the rate is 1 AUD being worth about US 75 cents:

Live mid-market rates as of 2005.07.17 18:22:43 UTC. 1.00 USD United States Dollars = 1.33476 AUD Australia Dollars 1 USD = 1.33476 AUD 1 AUD = 0.749200 USD

Cairns Attractions
Cairns is a lovely city, with fascinating shopping and terrific galleries, fine dining, and excellent outdoor activities. I haven't been there for a few years, but I remember thinking at the time that the area by the waterfront is like Key Largo should have developed. I hope it is still as quaint and interesting. For sure, there are considerable touristic options from a Cairns base of operation.

You may wish to take some time to do some web research before you go. See www.cairnsattractions.com/ and www.cairnsweb.com.au/ as a start.

Photographic hints
As is typical of our MFT Photo Tours, this is not a photo seminar, but an opportunity for like-minded photo enthusiasts to come together to enjoy unique photo-opportunities. The Coral Sea is probably better for wide-angle and fish photography than it is for macro. Certainly, this is not a "muck" destination, and you should be prepared to take advantage of the brilliant water clarity and gorgeous hard and soft corals, as well as the planned shark dive. Our dives in the Great Barrier Reef will have plenty of fish and macro opportunities, but it would be disappointing to have a giant potato cod swim up to you when you have only a 105mm macro lens on your D-SLR.

A quick glimpse of the variety of images at http://www.spiritoffreedom.com.au/photo_gallery.htm/ give a sense of some of the topside and underwater potential. The potato cod will be at one dive site along the Great Barrier Reef primarily, and hopefully the divemasters on board will be attuned to some of the cryptic creatures like the ghost pipefish and leaffish featured on the page. They tend not to move much, and so if they have been located on prior trips, presumably they will be still around.

In terms of Canon lenses, I'll be bringing a 15mm for superwide underwater work and over/unders, a 17-40 zoom for general purpose wide angle and large marine life, a 50mm macro for general fish portraits, and a 100mm macro for night dives and occasional macro use. The Nikon equivalent would be 10.5mm, 12-24mm, 60mm macro and 105mm macro.

There will likely be more topside opportunities on this trip than some others. Of course the time spent in Cairns can be photographically productive, but additionally there will be opportunities to get off the boat at Lizard Island.

Henderson Insta Dry

In anticipation of cooler water in Australia this time of year, I made a call to my friend Joe Polak at Henderson Aquatics. I knew I needed something a little warmer than my tropical wetsuits, and I was very eager to try out their new Insta Dry technology. I had tried the Insta Dry gloves previously in Indonesia, and found they were ultra warm and flexible. I thought at the time an Insta Dry wetsuit had terrific appeal.

The week before leaving I received both 5mm and 3mm Insta Dry suits from Henderson. These suits are just now getting out into their dealer network, and I was thrilled to have an early production suit to try.

First impression ... Holy Cow, Nice Presentation! They come in a really cool storage box, with a special towel to wipe the suit down after the dive, thereby expediting the quick-dry aspect of the suit. The suit itself is very stylish, in a black-on-black kind of way. Nice graphics, quite elegant actually. Guaranteed to put me into "stealth mode" for all those sneaky little macro critters on the Great Barrier Reef.

When I tried the suit on, it felt different than their Hyperstretch, for example. Where the Hyperstretch is very forgiving in terms of sizing, covering a wide range of somatotype with a single suit, the Insta dry really should be properly fitted. They are a little harder to slip into, but more form fitting. The inside is like their familiar Gold Core material, but with Insta Dry on the outside it will not stretch like a conventional suit.

With the baggage restrictions we all face for international travel, I made a leap of faith. I didn't want to take both 3mm and 5mm suits, so I trusted I could get by with a 3mm and a hooded vest in the 74-degree water. Actually, I based this on how warm their gloves kept my hands compared to similar neoprene gloves. But, it was a bit risky. A normal 3mm suit in this environment would be way too cold for me.

Fast forward to the Great Barrier Reef on our first dive of the trip. I leap in with my new 3mm Insta Dry and a hooded vest. Expecting that first blast of cold water down my spine, I am pleasantly reassured. So far so good. I only had to wear 8 pounds of weight, whereas those with 5mm and hooded vests were wearing 20 pounds of lead, and more. After a 50-minute dive I dried off and went to the ship’s satellite e-mail service to report in to Joe. Here below are my first impressions of the Henderson Insta Dry:

Joe - I'm writing this from Spirit of Freedom live-aboard, first day out on the Great Barrier Reef.

Details:
74-degree water
3mm Henderson Insta Dry suit with additional hooded vest

Results:
Truly amazing. By far the warmest 3mm suit I've ever worn. People in 5/3mm suits, and even those in brand new 5mm suits purchased specifically for this trip were coming out of the water chilled. It did not even occur to me to think about the cold. I did not know it was cold, totally not an issue. I was truly surprised to see so many shivering on deck after the dive. I was 5mm warm in 3mm comfort. Less weight was required, greater flexibility allowed, and did I mention … it was warm!!!

Joe ... congratulations. The concept is brilliant. The facts that it dries quickly, doesn’t hold odor or bacteria, and is stylish are pluses of course. But, the reality is that it does thermal protection very, very well.

My new Insta Dry fits great, looks great, and is clearly a significantly enhanced technological achievement.

Steve