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Dive Sites of the Galapagos Islands Aboard
Peter Hughes' Sky Dancer
Text and photography by Stephen Frink
http://www.stephenfrink.com/sf-reports/galapagos2002/divesites.php |
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The
following is directly verbatim from Fernando Ortiz, one of the most
experienced dive guides in the Galapagos Islands:
Isla Lobos
20 ft of water, scores of friendly sea lions come to join the divers.
It is good for garden eels, some tropical fish and stingrays.
Sea turtles and eagle rays are found frequently. A couple of times,
we have seen marine iguanas grazing under water.
- Currents: none, sometimes, water motion associated to tides.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: none
North Seymour
Great dive site. Good for all sorts of rays year-round and especially
good for mantas from December until April. Lots of whitetip reef
sharks rest on the sandy spots. Good place for sea lions, sea
turtles and hammerhead sharks. Several thick schools of grunts
and snappers live associated to the reef.
- Currents: prevalently from south. It goes from moderate to very
strong.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at 45 ft and sometimes also at 75 ft.
Cousins Rock
A dive site with a bit of everything for every taste. You can find
whitetip reef sharks, hammerhead sharks, sea lions hunting, fur
seals and many sleeping sea turtles. A highlight is a resident
school of up to 30 spotted eagle rays. If you are interested in
macro photography, look for seahorses, frogfish, lobster, arrow
crabs, cup coral, blue crabs, longnose hawkfish, coral hawkfish,
nudibranchs, etc. It is superb for night or day diving.
- Currents: prevalently from northeast. It goes from moderate to
strong. Occasionally very strong, coming from the north.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 --78 / May -- Nov: 65 -- 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: variable from 65 to 90 ft
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Tagus Cove
Cold-water dive (sometimes as low as 62F.). It is excellent for sea
turtles and macro subjects such as red-lipped batfish, and the
endemic "camotillo," a species of fish restricted only to Galapagos
waters. While making your safety stop, keep an eye out for penguins
or flightless cormorants coming your way. On the deep sandy bottom
you can find sawfish and devil rays.
- Currents: none.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 70 - 76 / May - Nov: 62 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: variable, but normally below 65 ft
Punta Vicente Roca
One of the very best macro dives in Galapagos. It can be cold (as
low as 62F). The list of invertebrates that is found on this wall
dive is endless, from the simplest sponge to really beautiful
flatworms. Besides you can find seahorses, frogfish, port Jackson
sharks, red-lipped batfish, and the endemic "camotillo". At the
beginning of the dive keep your eyes open for "mola mola" or moon
fish.
- Currents: none
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 70 - 76 / May - Nov: 62 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: variable, but normally below 65 ft
Wolf Island
One of those magical islands, with several dive sites to choose from.
If you want to see sharks, you are at the right spot. This is
a place for schooling hammerhead sharks, large aggregations of
Galapagos sharks and occasionally whale sharks. Seeing dolphins,
large schools of tuna, spotted eagle rays, barracudas, sea lions
and sea turtles is common. The bottom is littered with hundreds
of moray eels, many of them free-swimming. Being several degrees
warmer than the Central Islands, you can look for many representatives
of Indopacific underwater fauna.
- Currents: Normally from southeast, but variable. It goes from
moderate to very strong. Eddies and down drafts associated to
some dive sites. The south side of the island features strong
surge that is potentially dangerous if divers don't surface out
in deep waters. Trust your guide and do as he recommends.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 76--82 / May -- Nov: 74 -- 76 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at around 65 ft, but highly variable
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Darwin Island
Considered by many experienced divers as the best dive site in the
world, The Arch at Darwin island honors its reputation. It is
warmer by a few degrees than the Central Islands. In a single
dive you can find schooling hammerhead sharks, Galapagos sharks,
large pods of dolphins, thick schools of skipjack and yellowfin
tuna, big eye jacks, mobula rays and silky sharks. From June to
November, we can almost guarantee whale sharks in numbers of up
to eight different individuals in one single dive. The presence
of occasional tiger sharks, black and blue marlin and killer whales,
complements this amazing diving experience. If you still have
time to look for smaller stuff, you'll find octopus, flounders
and an enormous variety and abundance of tropical fish. Darwin
Island is the biggest jewel on the Galapagos Crown.
- Currents: Normally from southeast, but variable. It goes from
moderate to very strong. Current splits right in front of The
Arch. Drifting south-southeast is potentially dangerous due to
shallow reefs and the difficulty to cover that area for search.
Trust your guide and do as he recommends.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 76 - 82 / May - Nov: 72 - 78 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at around 65 ft but variable.
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The Northern Channel
On the south side of Seymour Island and no deeper than 50 feet deep,
the northern channel is superb. It features an enormous "field" of
garden eels, stingrays, a school of spotted eagle rays, whitetip
reef sharks and thick schools of grunts, snappers and goatfish.
When Dr. Sylvia Earle described Galapagos as "the fishiest place
in the world", she had probably dived this site.
- Currents: from east. It goes from moderate to strong. When surfacing,
water accelerates on top of the shallow part of the reef causing
quick drifts. Make your safety stop holding to a rock.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at about 45 ft.
North Plaza
In our normal itineraries, this dive site is the best way of ending
your trip on board Sky Dancer. Its shallow waters are home to
a rookery of playful young sea lions.
- Currents: none, sometimes, water motion associated with tides.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: none
Gardner's Seamount
This place features the greatest biodiversity in the archipelago.
During a dive here, you can see anything from the smallest barnacle
blenny to whale sharks. Common inhabitants of this seamount are
large schools of yellow and dog snappers, Mexican goatfish, moray
eels, stingrays, spotted eagle rays, whitetip reef sharks, Pacific
burrfish, guineafowl puffers, bullseye puffers, box fishes, king
angelfish, three banded butterflyfish, barber fish and three species
of grunts. If you venture to the sandy bottom, you may find red-lipped
batfish.
- Currents: normally from southeast. Variable, but mostly moderate.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at around 45 ft.
Enderby Island
A great dive site. If you stay above 50 ft, you can see thick schools
of king angelfish; yellow tailed surgeonfish, puffers, grunts,
snappers and groupers. It is also a good place for hammerheads
and Galapagos sharks. At the end of the dive, on the wall, you
can find seahorses clinging to the branches of the black coral.
- Currents: normally from southeast. Variable, but mostly moderate.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at around 45 ft.
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Champion Island
One of the nicest real drift wall dives in Galapagos. You can easily
glide alongside the island escorted by a group of friendly sea
lions. You can also look around for sharks, rays and sea turtles.
If you are interested in small creatures, look for seahorses,
longnose hawkfish and coral hawkfish.
- Currents: normally from southeast. Variable, but mostly moderate.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: at around 45 ft.
Devils Crown
A shallow dive site that features thick schools of all kinds of tropical
fish. Groupers, snappers, grunts, creolefish, rays, sharks, morays,
jacks, sea lions and turtles mingle together in a chaotic frenzy
of sea life. Hold on to a rock and enjoy the show.
- Currents: normally from southeast. Variable from moderate to
very strong.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: none
OTHER DIVE SITES:
Roca Redonda
The word unpredictable may have been specifically created to describe
this dive site. It is the peak of an enormous underwater mountain.
It is famous for its Galapagos sharks, schooling hammerheads,
and large schools of barracudas and underwater fumaroles. It is
also famous for its overpowering down draft and surge, and its
dramatic and sudden fog. It is not a place for beginners.
- Currents: Variable in both direction and strength. Very strong
surge. Unpredictable downcurrent.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: normally below 45 ft.
Gordon's Rocks
An exciting dive. Manta rays, spotted eagle rays, Galapagos sharks
and hammerheads are common sightings. Its unique underwater topography
allows forever changing conditions in terms of currents and surge.
You can find sea turtles and seasonally, a large school of up
to 50 cownose or golden eagle rays.
- Currents: from southeast. Variable from moderate to very strong.
Due to the peculiar underwater topography, there is the presence
of eddies and downcurrents. Surge can be magnified inside the
caldera of this very eroded underwater crater.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: normally below 65 ft.
Cabo Marshall
A good dive site. Hammerheads and mantas are a common sight. Chevron
barracuda, snappers, groupers and occasionally thick schools of
the endemic brown-striped salema are part of the resident underwater
fauna. The infrequent presence of oceanic white tipped sharks,
blue and black marlin make this a dive with lots of potential
surprises.
- Currents: normally from the southeast. Variable from moderate
to very strong.
- Water temp: Dec. - April: 74 - 78 / May - Nov: 68 - 72 degrees
Fahrenheit
- Thermoclines: normally below 45 ft.
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